Newport Polo

On just about any Saturday afternoon, the odds of finding pro golf tournaments on TV are excellent. The odds of flipping to competition tennis are better than average. And, the chances of clicking on a polo match being played by a U.S. club? As they say in Rhode Island-ese: f'geddabowdit.

To see one of the world's most exciting sports, you'll have to board the launch to shore and go to Glen Farm in Portsmouth, just fifteen minutes from Newport Harbor. It is a unique thrill to be there to watch "the sport of kings" being played on the open land at an historic 100-acre waterfront estate. Fair warning, though: you are going to be more than a spectator, because you'll have your turn on the field when it comes time to help stomp the divots between the chukkers.

Now, raise your hand if you can tell us what a chukker is.

Polo players on the field

One of the top female players in the world, Jamaica's Leslie Ann Masterton Fung-Yi (jade) prepares to drill the ball before the impact of a defensive bump by USA's (blue, #3) Dan Keating.

Since late last year, there have been promises and plans from the Newport International Polo Series to "pull out all the stops" for its milestone twentieth anniversary. The schedule, which began on June 4, features matches every Saturday starting at 5pm in June, July, and August and at 4pm in September. The international line-up for 2011 includes Egypt, Scotland, the debut of Kenya in July, followed by games against Ireland, Chile, Jamaica, England, and Brazil, which is another nation making its debut. The Newport team also plays against teams from U.S. cities, including Boston, New York, Chicago, Palm Beach and Washington, DC. In addition to the games, there is a whirlwind of summer galas and celebrations of the style that you will only find in Newport. The club's annual Asado Lamb Roast is in July, and throughout August, the social events already slated are the International Polo Charity Ball, a Lobster Bake, and a Jerk Grill party. How to participate in all this excitement on and off the polo field? Just buy tickets—either online or at the gate. Dan Keating, founder and president of the Series, says, "Many of the international players who come to Newport are the best from their representative countries, so you are in for fast-paced, highly-competitive matches. The teams are usually here for about a week before their game, taking time to practice, getting to know the horses, and enjoying the hospitality of Newport."

Spectators at Newport Polo

For all spectators new to the sport, here's "Polo 101." Polo is played on an outdoor grass field 300 by 160 yards, equal to about nine football fields. There are goal posts at each end, 24 feet apart. During play, there are eight players on the field, four on a team, plus the two umpires. That's ten ponies, but these are not kiddies' ponies. They are specially trained full-size horses, powerful, yet agile, standing 15 hands. And by the way, egos aside, no one can be a brilliant polo player without a fantastic pony; it's all about the horse. A game consists of six 7-minute chukkers, periods between or during which players change mounts. The halftime is when players, staff and spectators roam the field to stomp down all the divots because chunks of turf sticking up make it difficult to whack the ball.

Covering the famous Westchester Cup match in 1913 between America and England, the New York Times said this: "Polo is perhaps the easiest game in the world to become fulsomely foolish over. One can learn it in two minutes and go crazy over it in four." After you have been to a few games, you will automatically get the knack of following the ball, which can speed toward you at 100 mph, and you will recognize the block, the hook, the push, the bump, and the steal—tactics players use to gain or keep control of the ball. Eventually you will know the fouls and penalties. You might wonder why polo is always called a "gentleman's game" because there are moments when it looks like a mêlée that fuses horse racing and soccer with a rodeo show and hockey.

That really is everything you need to know to have a fabulous afternoon at Newport polo, plus this: Tailgate dining is totally encouraged. (Here's where an early access tailgate reservation puts you in the best spot.) Royal Ascot-style outfits and fancy hats are optional; nonetheless, it is nice to look picturesque. Most people show up at the games with a just-showered boat yard look about them (very Newport chic) or wearing Palm Beach garden party attire. No matter what you have on, if you can kibitz with your fellow spectators, picnic with good manners, and pop champagne with poise, you qualify to join the polo glitterati at Glen Farm. If you're sitting on the lawns, bring a folding chair, sunglasses, and a good sun parasol. Tote your binoculars, too. Those goal posts are 900 feet distant and that ball everyone is chasing is very small.

No one needs an engraved invitation to Glen Farm—all the games are public events. (A few diehard fans even show up mid-week to watch the team practice.) During the season, the club always does a little name-dropping in the celebrity columns of its web pages, so it is worth a peek online to see the Who's Who of Newport polo. (The club's website is NewportInternationalPolo.com.)

You may be surprised at who you'll be rubbing elbows with while browsing through the boutique-y vendors' tents or sipping cocktails at the Twisted Pony Bar. Susanne Day, a local fan who has been cheering the Newport team since her childhood when her grandparents brought her to watch polo, says "I have met a ton of interesting people including Rachel Ray. I told her I made her recipe for white sangria and she gave me a double high-five. I've seen royalty helicopter in to play here." Day says she looks forward to the tailgating because her friends make things like mini-croissant sandwiches with brie, roast beef and arugula, and—just a little party tip—they always use their shatterproof Govino stemless wineglasses.

The Newport Polo Club, established 1876, is listed with the United States Polo Association as the Westchester Polo Club because of New York Herald publisher and Newport summer resident, James Gordon Bennett. In the spring of 1876, Bennett, then 35, and his friends, wealthy men who were predominately from Westchester, New York, established the first formal U.S. club. Today, there are 282 clubs across the country according to the U.S. Polo Association.

At first, the seasons alternated between Westchester and Newport. Eventually, the club made Newport its official home, but did not change its name. Late in 1901, the New York Times ran a small notice that said: "Among the many improvements at the Westchester Polo Club will be a new clubhouse. The clubhouse quarters, situated on the Ocean Drive and commanding a fine view of the ocean, will be, in all probability, much sought by residents going and coming from the golf club." The polo field, the paper also said, was in excellent condition, despite earlier reports that said it sank below sea-level and had become soggy. Coincidentally, during the prior season, the club had welcomed two star players: brothers Alfred G. Vanderbilt, 23, and Reginald C. Vanderbilt, 20. Besides being able to sit a saddle well, the new members just happened to be from one of America's exorbitantly wealthy families.

"Each year the number of spectators grows and there are so many ways to experience the 'scene.'" says Day. "In the Subscriber Enclosure there are chairs and tables with nice white tablecloths. Lately, we've been hosting private parties during polo in the tented pavilion." A couple of years back, Sports Illustrated magazine named the Newport International Polo Series 5th on its list of "Top 25 Best Summer Sports Bargains." No surprise, since going out to watch polo is an affordable family activity. Single tickets are only $10, or for box seating, $15.

Season passes, $125, are for watching from the field, bleachers or tailgate picnic areas. Season Box passes, for a tad more, gets you into the Subscribers Enclosure or onto various levels of the pavilion for elevated viewing. Keating, who, in addition to his executive duties, is captain of the U.S. team, urges boaters to "drop out of the hectic harbor scene to spend an afternoon in the countryside." He says, "The atmosphere at polo is lively and casual. The beauty of it is that you don't have to go far from the water to find yourself in this bucolic setting enjoying the natural scenery and an exciting sporting event."

The Other America's Cup

If You Go

How to get "up-island" from Newport Harbor to Glen Farm polo fields: Glen Farm Polo Fields are located at 715 East Main Road, Portsmouth.

For more information and directions visit NewportInternationalPolo.com.
Phone 401-846-0200

Admission is $10 for adults, $15 for box seating within the Subscribers Enclosure.Children 15 and under are free. Dogs on leashes, please. Admission tickets, reservedseats and reserved tailgating passes can be easily purchased online. Admission tickets are sold at the gate, which opens at mid-day.

For a chauffeur-driven car, try A-1 Car, Cab & Van Service, 401-841-0411.

By RIPTA bus, take #60; cost $2 one way, or $6 for a 24-hr. bus pass.

Photos courtesy of the Newport International Polo Series XX, Presented by 41º North. Photos by Susan Choquette and Rod Harris.

 

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