Sampling the Flavors of the Ocean State
by Anita Rafael

Fish steak on a plate on the left, and vegetable in a farmer's market on right

A few simple tips visitors might want to know when it comes to ordering ordinary things in Rhode Island’s restaurants. First, around here, most of us drink our coffee regular. That means with cream and sugar— very uncomplicated. Second, a cabinet is not a kitchen cupboard; it’s a thick milkshake and it must be made with rich and creamy ice cream. Third, be absolutely clear when you say you want a grinder. It’s not the deck crew who trims your mainsail; it’s the sandwich that the rest of New England usually calls a sub or hoagie. And, one more thing: We like our stone-ground flint cornmeal johnnycakes served with the freshest dairy butter, so hold the maple syrup, please.

Having mastered the basics, you’re ready to venture deeper into the pleasures of local dining. Not surprising, the best of Rhode Island cuisine has a lot to do with the flavors of the sea. Ever wonder why we’re called The Ocean State? It’s because there are more than 400 miles of saltwater coastline. The best chefs in town are absolutely confident about the freshness of the seafood they have on their menus. The Catch of the Day is actually more like “the catch of just a couple of hours ago.”

Chef Ted Gidley at the Clarke Cooke House on Bannister’s Wharf says, “We consider ourselves very Fortunate to have the bounty of Narragansett Bay at our doorstep.” And, he is quick to add, “There is nothing quite like just-caught striped bass.” Chef Gidley’s one-minute pan-sauté of “striper” filets is prepared with seven minutes of additional roasting in the oven, which gives the fish a golden-bronze color. Forget about the heavy tartar sauce. Chef Gidley plates it with citrus vinaigrette, chickpea puree and a pickled rhubarb garnish and it’s not like any baked fish you’ve ever tasted before.

A couple of docks down from the Cooke House kitchen, Chef Kevin Gaudreau at The Pier Restaurant on Brown & Howard Wharf, says that some of his basic recipes for raw bar delicacies can be easily prepared in any galley. “Boaters can pick up great shellfish at our local fishmongers” he says, “or if they would like, they can dig up their own.

bowl of clam chowder

When I was a kid growing up in Jamestown we would go down to the creek and dig up littleneck clams when we got hungry. “It was so carefree and the clams were delicious.” Chef Gaudreau savors those memories and carries his boyhood experiences forward to some flavorful sauces that he creates for oysters, clams and shrimp. These are intended, he says, to let the fresh flavor of the sea come through. (Recipes on page 30.)

For the cooks on board, here are a couple of tips. Take a spin over to the State Pier at the end of Long Wharf when the commercial fishermen are returning to their slips and you can buy lobsters, shellfish and fish right off the boats. Also, Aquidneck Lobster Company on Bowen’s Wharf has a long icefilled tray of fresh fish in addition to their lobster pound. Anthony’s Seafood on Aquidneck Avenue in Middletown has both fresh seafood and a casual restaurant.

Of course, the best adventure option for finding fresh fish is to join a charter captain like Capt. Joseph R. Aiello of Sara Star, or Tom Mazza of Tom Kat for a day of deep-sea fishing and then plan to keep enough of your catch for dinner and the freezer. With prior arrangements, you can bring your fish to Café Zelda’s kitchen door on Thames Street and their chefs will prepare it to your liking and serve it at your table when you come in for dinner.

With so much seawater around us, it’s easy to forget there are many small, family-run farms on Aquidneck Island, too. One of the most beautiful farms is Sweet Berry Farm, about five miles from Newport Harbor. “We’ve had the entire crew of some of the yachts come up here,” says Jan Eckhart, who owns and runs the farm with his wife Michelle. “It seems they like to get off the water to mix things up a bit, and picking their own apples, for example, is a great way to provision before heading out on a cruise.” The farm stand has expanded over the years from a little tent and table where they sold baskets of strawberries to an upscale gourmet destination. Chefs at the Sweet Berry Farm kitchen offer a daily menu of in-season prepared foods, including entrees, panini, salads, wraps and specialties, all made with the produce harvested just a few feet from the kitchen door. Having a delicious lunch at the café or sitting outside at the picnic tables and watching the farm tractor go by with a wagonload of just-picked produce makes you never want to go to a supermarket to buy food again.

 

Only a couple of miles from Sweet Berry Farm are the two Aquidneck Island wineries— Greenvale Vineyards and Newport Vineyards. We recommend taking a half-day wine tasting tour of both, which produce small quantities of estate-grown wines. Located along the Sakonnet River in Portsmouth, Greenvale has a unique history as a 19th century working farm and over the past several years, has evolved into an entertainment destination with live jazz on the weekends and highly informative tastings and tours.

Our favorite way to get the full “farm-to-table” experience in Newport is to go food shopping on the days when the local farmers markets set up their tents and tables. The largest outdoor market of fruit, vegetables, breads, meats, eggs, cheeses, seafood and products such as local honey, berry jams and maple syrup, is the Aquidneck Grower’s Market. It is held in a big, open field, every Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm, June through October at 909 West Main Road in Middletown, a location that overlooks Newport Vineyards. Many of these same vendors set up again on Wednesdays, from 2 to 6 pm in town on Memorial Boulevard. Look for their carts and pick-up trucks on the left just as you pass the intersection with Bellevue Avenue, a five-minute walk from Newport Harbor. Bristol, Barrington and Tiverton also have multiple market days.

We have friends who only seem to show up in town on the weekends when there are fabulous food fests on the Newport waterfront. Newport has long been famous for the Chowder Cook-Off and the Bowen’s Wharf Seafood Festival. And, in recent years, the season’s schedule has included a new wine and food festival at the Newport Mansions.

Every year the “Oktoberfest” gets bigger with more oompah-pah, making it New England’s largest authentic German celebration. That typically takes place the week after the Festa Italiana, which follows the Hellenic festival at the Greek Church on Thames Street. (Spanakopita! Baklava!)

If you’re one of the season’s real early-birds, come to the Kinsale Ireland Festival of Fine Food in March, an event that celebrates our sister-city ties. Or, better yet, plan to be here for the Newport Restaurant Weeks. Twice a year, spring and fall, for a low fixed price you can enjoy lunches and dinners at dozens of area restaurants.The chefs create three-course menus that send the food-bloggers to their keyboards with their mouths watering even before the menus are published in the papers. One of the most ravedabout dishes during Restaurant Week last March was the “deconstructed” clam chowder served at the new Tallulah on Thames. It was, as our blogger friend Andrea M. writes, “an extraordinary experience.” She oohs and ahhs over the way fresh, steamed little necks were arranged atop a layer of diced potato, bacon and oyster crackers. The server, she says, then poured a creamy clam broth into the bowl at her table. The full datebook of the area’s food events is easy to find at GoNewport.com.

Two simple words about a delicious dish everyone who visits Newport must try, a meal that came to Rhode Island generations ago with immigrant fishermen: Portuguese Soup. If you see this listed on any menu, order it. It’s kale and cabbage, with spicy chorizo and white pea beans, and it’s hearty and tasty. The recipe has as many variations as there are cooks in the state and after hundreds of bowls of kale soup, we’ve yet to find one that we could improve on.

We can tell you that when it comes to local cuisine, you’ll always find the old Yankee favorites like apple cobblers and fried clams, prime rib and steamed lobster, but you’ll also discover that Rhode Islanders seem to have a knack for blending the flavors and traditions of many cultures into something wonderful. What is the true taste of Rhode Island? Well, last week we decided it was a big-enough-for-two Scallop and Bacon Pizza with a Jim Beam Whiskey and Maple sauce which we enjoyed at Fieldstones Portsmouth Grille on East Main Road for just $11. What did we have with it? Local beer, of course — frosty pints of island-brewed Newport Storm’s Hurricane Amber Ale. With so many fine restaurants and great local ingredients, we’re sure that next week we’ll find another great dish that tops our list of favorites.

People at a wine tasting event
Visitors enjoy a wine tasting at Greenvale Vineyards located along the beautiful Sakonnet River in Portsmouth, RI, five miles north of downtown Newport.

return to Newport Harbor Guide Articles
Newport Harbor Guide:  home   harbor watch   directory   map   articles   media kit   contact