Swimming Holes

On any given summer day, especially a mid-August steamer, Aquidneck Island’s beaches are smothered with beachgoers, each staking out a space the width of their personal belongings. Chairs, umbrellas, and towels are cast wide to discourage encroachers. The white noise is a cacophony of chatter, radios, screeching kids, gulls, and loudspeaker hails of illegally parked cars.

Yet elsewhere along the island’s rocky perimeter, somewhere far from the crowds, there’s a secluded swimming hole to be found as the changing tide exposes a shallow pool or a patch of sand with room for one. It’s here – anywhere really – where you can take a dip, stretch out on the smoothest rock you can find, one that conforms to your body, and soak up its warmth like some lazy amphibian. Adjust the backpack, shirt, or towel that has become a makeshift pillow, forget about sand in your sun block, and slip into a light nap, embraced by the hiss of the wind and the gurgle of seawater swirling through rockweed. This is your spot, and your spot alone. The rise and fall of the tide present an unimaginable variety of such places, and discovering one is as much exploration as serendipity. At the risk of revealing a few sacred holes of our own, we present a few island favorites to get you started. But for pure personal satisfaction – take a walk and find your own.

Tuckie’s Throne
Tucked out of sight below an eroding hillside at the southern tip of Middletown’s most populated seaside headland is a place known to many locals but enjoyed by few others because of its hidden accessibility. Here you’ll find curved, velvety smooth black rocks at the water’s edge. Their contours make for ideal mid-tide lounge seats. Sit or stretch out on one of them and let the rising tide swirl around you – the contrast of warm rock and cool water is spa-like bliss. This place is best enjoyed from early to midsummer, before the nearby reef sheds its red carpet of seaweed. There’s a shoreline access adjacent to the Clambake Club on Easton’s Point, and a short westward ramble over the rocks gets you here in less than 10 minutes.

Elephant Rock
If there’s one place on this island that defines a summer swimming hole, it’s Elephant Rock.
A deep, lagoon-like bay is flanked on one side by a high, steep rock face, and by a low, craggy rock formation on the other. On the far side there are smaller tide pools, ideal for snorkeling when the tide is high, and a high ledge for adventurous jumpers. The water is always cool and seaweed free most of the summer, and the east-facing wall, with many flat spots on which to recline, makes it an ideal place for a morning swim.
For many generations of nearby residents, Elephant Rock has been a private retreat for swimming and socializing because one adjacent neighbor’s land includes most of the lounge-able rock. A few select neighbors are “invited,” and with the invitation comes direct walking access, as well as a few rules, one of which discourages picnicking. But from the high-tide mark on down, as well as along the southern portion, it’s fair game for everyone else. Getting here requires a rugged half-mile or so hike from the Easton’s Point shoreline access, but the reward is worth every step. Be mindful of the many superb tide pools along the way.

The Wall
One fascinating aspect of Newport’s Cliff Walk is the volume of pedestrians that saunter its pavement all summer long without ever stepping off the path to enjoy its true riches. From the walk’s northern end at Memorial Boulevard to its southern extremity at Bailey’s Beach, there are literally hundreds of places to escape into isolation. One place in particular, found at the base of a towering man-made wall near Ochre Court on the Salve Regina University campus, is a short expanse of golden, grainy sand, exposed only at low tide. The water is typically crystal clear and seaweed free, and because it faces east, it’s well protected when a southerly sea breeze is honking. The pedestrians from far above will gaze on with jealousy, wondering how you got there. A long chain of rocks just off the beach provides excellent snorkeling, where blackfish mingle among schools of baitfish. There are a number of ways to access the beach, but the safest and easiest way is descending the boulders just south of it. Use common sense; if climbing is not your thing, join the crowds at Forty Steps, another excellent spot just down the path.

 

Caverns By the Sea
At the western end of Ocean Drive there’s a beach nestled between two high headlands. The beach itself tends to draw a small crowd on the weekends, but get here early – most importantly just as the tide is dropping – and claim the deepest of two shallow caves found at the far end of the beach. At mid-tide, you might wade in knee-deep water to reach them, but once you’re there, seclusion is yours. The caves face the open sea, so the water is always clean, the bottom is fine, silky sand, and once the sea breeze begins to tickle Rhode Island Sound, you’ll own your own little summer paradise. The caves, which also provide shade if you need a break from the sun, are loaded with colorful pebbles to pick through. There’s ample parking nearby at Brenton Point State Park. Park at the western-most end, walk in the direction of Castle Hill, and look to your left for the beach.

The Baths
The most spectacular swimming hole I’ve found on Aquidneck Island is fittingly the most difficult to reach. The picture on page 48 does it no justice. Those who know this remote place – mainly locals – keep it to themselves, but allow me to carefully tease. If you’re fortunate to have an entire day free, a 30-minute difficult hike from one of two access points puts you at an extreme southern end of the island. (There are dozens of excellent places to stop and swim along the way, or save them for another day). Here, several large, triangular tide pools are flanked by tall, flat, sloping yellow granite rock formations. A high morning tide fills two upper pools through small fissures, the sun warms them throughout the day. With the low tide, several deeper pools are exposed, and crashing waves fill them with bubbles. Jacuzzi au natural. Float on your back in the upper pool’s shallow end and soak up summer at its best, or tread water at its deepest point. The surrounding rocks are flat, smooth and expansive, allowing you (and a few close friends) to shift with the sun as it passes overhead. The sloping rocks buffer the force of the sea breeze, and serve as a high point from which to cast a few lures. As daylight begins to wane, scour the area’s abundant driftwood to feed a pint-sized, warming fire, and watch the sun disappear over Cherry Neck. Island life doesn’t get any better than this.

Kayak Launching Sites and Places to Explore

NEWPORT
Along Ocean Drive, launch at west end; Green Bridge, a few legal parking areas along the road; once launched additional areas to explore: Price’s Neck and Gooseberry Island. King’s Beach, ample free parking and great area for fishing.
Wellington Avenue, King Park, easy launch and numerous parking spots.
Sail Newport, Fort Adams, ample free parking. Once launched additional areas to explore: Ida Lewis Yacht Club, Brenton Cove and Fort Adams.
Willow or Elm streets, launch sites. Once launched additional areas to explore: Goat Island Causeway, Rose Island and its historic lighthouse (land only near lighthouse and not on other beaches).

MIDDLETOWN
Sachuest Beach, surfers end, be cautious of strong surf and numerous swimmers and surfers in water.
Third Beach, launch site, ample parking; lots of windsurfers.

PORTSMOUTH
Along the Sakonnet River, and Coddington Cove, launch sites at Sandy Point Beach and Island Park. Western side of island, public launch on Burma Road at Weaver Cove. Additional areas to explore: Dyer Island.

JAMESTOWN
Launch at Fort Wetherill or Mackeral Cove along the eastern shoreline; Jamestown Harbor Beach and explore the Dumplings. On the western shore at Fort Getty there is a ramp on the north end, sheltered cove and salt marsh area good for beginners. From there advanced kayakers may want to venture out to Dutch Island.

Republished Courtesy of Newport Life Magazine

© 2008 Newport Harbor Guide. All rights reserved.

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