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On any given summer day, especially a mid-August steamer, Aquidneck
Island’s beaches are smothered with beachgoers, each staking
out a space the width of their personal belongings. Chairs, umbrellas,
and towels are cast wide to discourage encroachers. The white noise
is a cacophony of chatter, radios, screeching kids, gulls, and loudspeaker
hails of illegally parked cars.
Yet elsewhere along the island’s
rocky perimeter, somewhere far from the crowds, there’s a secluded
swimming hole to be found as the changing tide exposes a shallow
pool or a patch of sand with room for one. It’s here – anywhere
really – where
you can take a dip, stretch out on the smoothest rock you can find,
one that conforms to your body, and soak up its warmth like some
lazy amphibian. Adjust the backpack, shirt, or towel that has become
a makeshift pillow, forget about sand in your sun block, and slip
into a light nap, embraced by the hiss of the wind and the gurgle
of seawater swirling through rockweed. This is your spot, and your
spot alone. The rise and fall of the tide present an unimaginable
variety of such places, and discovering one is as much exploration
as serendipity. At the risk of revealing a few sacred holes of our
own, we present a few island favorites to get you started. But for
pure personal satisfaction – take a walk and find your own.
Tuckie’s Throne
Tucked out of sight below an eroding hillside at the southern tip
of Middletown’s most populated seaside headland is a place
known to many locals but enjoyed by few others because of its hidden
accessibility. Here you’ll find curved, velvety smooth black
rocks at the water’s edge. Their contours make for ideal
mid-tide lounge seats. Sit or stretch out on one of them and let
the rising tide swirl around you – the contrast of warm rock
and cool water is spa-like bliss. This place is best enjoyed from
early to midsummer, before the nearby reef sheds its red carpet
of seaweed. There’s a shoreline access adjacent to the Clambake
Club on Easton’s Point, and a short westward ramble over
the rocks gets you here in less than 10 minutes.
Elephant Rock
If there’s one place on this island that defines a summer swimming
hole, it’s Elephant Rock.
A deep, lagoon-like bay is flanked on one side by a high, steep rock
face, and by a low, craggy rock formation on the other. On the far
side there are smaller tide pools, ideal for snorkeling when the
tide is high, and a high ledge for adventurous jumpers. The water
is always cool and seaweed free most of the summer, and the east-facing
wall, with many flat spots on which to recline, makes it an ideal
place for a morning swim.
For many generations of nearby residents, Elephant Rock has been
a private retreat for swimming and socializing because one adjacent
neighbor’s land includes most of the lounge-able rock. A few
select neighbors are “invited,” and with the invitation
comes direct walking access, as well as a few rules, one of which
discourages picnicking. But from the high-tide mark on down, as well
as along the southern portion, it’s fair game for everyone
else. Getting here requires a rugged half-mile or so hike from the
Easton’s Point shoreline access, but the reward is worth every
step. Be mindful of the many superb tide pools along the way.
The Wall
One fascinating aspect of Newport’s Cliff Walk is the volume
of pedestrians that saunter its pavement all summer long without
ever stepping off the path to enjoy its true riches. From the walk’s
northern end at Memorial Boulevard to its southern extremity at Bailey’s
Beach, there are literally hundreds of places to escape into isolation.
One place in particular, found at the base of a towering man-made
wall near Ochre Court on the Salve Regina University campus, is a
short expanse of golden, grainy sand, exposed only at low tide. The
water is typically crystal clear and seaweed free, and because it
faces east, it’s well protected when a southerly sea breeze
is honking. The pedestrians from far above will gaze on with jealousy,
wondering how you got there. A long chain of rocks just off the beach
provides excellent snorkeling, where blackfish mingle among schools
of baitfish. There are a number of ways to access the beach, but
the safest and easiest way is descending the boulders just south
of it. Use common sense; if climbing is not your thing, join the
crowds at Forty Steps, another excellent spot just down the path.
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Caverns By the Sea
At the western end of Ocean Drive there’s a beach nestled between two high
headlands. The beach itself tends to draw a small crowd on the weekends, but
get here early – most importantly just as the tide is dropping – and
claim the deepest of two shallow caves found at the far end of the beach. At
mid-tide, you might wade in knee-deep water to reach them, but once you’re
there, seclusion is yours. The caves face the open sea, so the water is always
clean, the bottom is fine, silky sand, and once the sea breeze begins to tickle
Rhode Island Sound, you’ll own your own little summer paradise. The caves,
which also provide shade if you need a break from the sun, are loaded with colorful
pebbles to pick through. There’s ample parking nearby at Brenton Point
State Park. Park at the western-most end, walk in the direction of Castle Hill,
and look to your left for the beach.
The Baths
The most spectacular swimming hole I’ve found on Aquidneck Island is fittingly
the most difficult to reach. The picture on page 48 does it no justice. Those
who know this remote place – mainly locals – keep it to themselves,
but allow me to carefully tease. If you’re fortunate to have an entire
day free, a 30-minute difficult hike from one of two access points puts you at
an extreme southern end of the island. (There are dozens of excellent places
to stop and swim along the way, or save them for another day). Here, several
large, triangular tide pools are flanked by tall, flat, sloping yellow granite
rock formations. A high morning tide fills two upper pools through small fissures,
the sun warms them throughout the day. With the low tide, several deeper pools
are exposed, and crashing waves fill them with bubbles. Jacuzzi au natural. Float
on your back in the upper pool’s shallow end and soak up summer at its
best, or tread water at its deepest point. The surrounding rocks are flat, smooth
and expansive, allowing you (and a few close friends) to shift with the sun as
it passes overhead. The sloping rocks buffer the force of the sea breeze, and
serve as a high point from which to cast a few lures. As daylight begins to wane,
scour the area’s abundant driftwood to feed a pint-sized, warming fire,
and watch the sun disappear over Cherry Neck. Island life doesn’t get any
better than this.
Kayak Launching Sites and Places to Explore
NEWPORT
Along Ocean Drive, launch at west end; Green Bridge, a few legal
parking areas along the road; once launched additional areas to
explore: Price’s Neck and Gooseberry Island. King’s
Beach, ample free parking and great area for fishing.
Wellington Avenue, King Park, easy launch and numerous parking spots.
Sail Newport, Fort Adams, ample free parking. Once launched additional
areas to explore: Ida Lewis Yacht Club, Brenton Cove and Fort Adams.
Willow or Elm streets, launch sites. Once launched additional areas
to explore: Goat Island Causeway, Rose Island and its historic lighthouse
(land only near lighthouse and not on other beaches).
MIDDLETOWN
Sachuest Beach, surfers end, be cautious of strong surf and numerous
swimmers and surfers in water.
Third Beach, launch site, ample parking; lots of windsurfers.
PORTSMOUTH
Along the Sakonnet River, and Coddington Cove, launch sites at Sandy
Point Beach and Island Park. Western side of island, public launch
on Burma Road at Weaver Cove. Additional areas to explore: Dyer
Island.
JAMESTOWN
Launch at Fort Wetherill or Mackeral Cove along the eastern shoreline;
Jamestown Harbor Beach and explore the Dumplings. On the western
shore at Fort Getty there is a ramp on the north end, sheltered
cove and salt marsh area good for beginners. From there advanced
kayakers may want to venture out to Dutch Island.
Republished Courtesy of Newport Life Magazine
© 2008 Newport Harbor
Guide. All rights reserved.
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